Topkapi is the largest and oldest palace in the world to survive to our day. In 1924 it was turned into a museum at Atatiirk's request. Situated on the acropolis, the site of the first settlement in Istanbul, it commands an impressive view of the Golden Horn, the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. The palace is a complex surrounded by 5 km of walls and occupies an area of 700,000 sq. m at the tip of the historical peninsula.

Following the conquest of the city in 1453, the young Sultan Mehmet moved the capital of the empire to Istanbul, His first palace was located in the middle of the town. The second palace, which he built in the 1470's, was initially called the New Palace, but in recent times it came to be known as the Topkapi Palace. Topkapi is a classical example of Turkish palace architecture. It consists of tree- shaded courtyards, each serving a different purpose and opening onto one another with monumental gates. The courtyards are surrounded by functional buildings. From the time of its construction, the palace developed constantly with alterations and additions made by each sultan.

When the sultans moved to the ostentatious Dolmabahce Palace in 1853, Topkapi lost its importance as the official royal residence and was left to deteriorate. It finally regained its former unpretentious beauty after fifty years of continuous restoration in the Republican era. Most of the objects exhibited in the palace today are unique masterpieces.

When it was used as a palace, it served more functions than one usually associates with royal residences. Although it was the residence of the Sultan, the sole ruler of the empire, it was at the same time the center of the administrative affairs, the place where the council of ministers met, and the treasury, mint, and state archives were located there. The highest educational institution of the empire, the university of the sultan and the state was also here. Therefore it was the heart, the brain, the very center of the Ottoman Empire. Much later, the harem (private quarters) of the sultans was moved here too.
Of the sixteen empires founded by the Turks, the Ottoman Empire was the longest lasting and the largest. It lasted for 622 years ruling over the Asian, European and African lands surrounding the Mediterranean and the Black Sea.
Peoples of different races and religions were united under its rule. The only other empire in history that governed such vast lands for such a long period was the Roman Empire.
Thirty-six sultans reigned during this period, and starting from early 16th century, they also became the religious leaders of the Islamic world as caliphs.
Capable civil servants, after completing their education in the school in the private courtyard of the sultan, served faithfully and successfully in the administration and organization of the empire. Most of the viziers and grand viziers were graduates of this school. Life started at dawn in the palace and it was subject to strict rules and ceremonies. Everybody had to abide by the centuries-old customs and traditions, and these were observed rigorously even when the empire fell into a period of decline. The etiquette of this palace always influenced the rules of protocol in the Western world.
The seaside mansions and pavilions of Topkapi Palace were demolished at the end of the last century.
The different tiles, woodwork and architectural styles displayed in Topkapi Palace reflects the development of Turkish art and the harmonious existence of differing styles over the centuries.

VISITING THE PALACE THE FIRST COURTYARD

The first courtyard is entered through the so-called Imperial Gate. The monumental fountain seen outside the gate is a beautiful example of 18th century Turkish art. In this courtyard there are the palace bakery, the mint, the quarters of the palace guards, and the firewood depots. The vegetable gardens used to occupy the terraces below. The first building in the palace complex, the Tiled Pavilion, and the Archeological Museum are in this courtyard, too. To the left of the entrance is the Hagia Eirene Museum, a 6th century Byzantine church.

THE SECOND COURTYARD

The main entrance to the Palace Museum is the second gate, known as the Gate of Salutation. The second courtyard was the administrative center of the state and the government. Only the sultans could enter this yard on horseback. Citizens with official business were allowed here, as well as the representatives of the Janissary corps on special paydays.
The reception of foreign emissaries and state ceremonies took place in this courtyard. It is known that absolute silence prevailed in such ceremonies, sometimes attended by up to ten thousand people. When the sultan was present in the event, the imperial throne was placed in front of the gate at the other end of the courtyard, and as a demonstration of respect; that present would stand with their hands clasped in front. The only tower in the palace is located here too. It was called "the Tower of Justice" because it was the venue of the state court of justice. The entire city and the port could be kept under observation from this tower, the only entrance of which was from the harem section.

THE HAREM

The harem was the private zone of the palace, where the mother and siblings of the sultan, the other members of the family, and the concubines and eunuchs who served this large family lived. Until the mid-16th century the harem was housed in the Old Palace in another part of the town. The harem of Topkapi Palace consists of long narrow hallways and about 400 rooms scattered around small courtyards. It was altered and enlarged over the years.

The harem was strictly closed to outsiders, and it became the subject of many stories over the centuries. The concubines serving the sultan and his family were chosen from among the most beautiful and healthy girls of different races or they were presented to the court as gifts.

These girls came to the harem at a very early age and were brought up under strict discipline. After they became thoroughly acquainted with the customs of the palace, they were separated into different groups. Those who could attract the attention of the sultan had the chance of becoming his wife.

There was no such title in the empire as "empress". The sultan's mother was the sole ruler in the harem. Amid the entire splendor and wealth, rivalry, hatred and intrigues to get closer to the sultan were part of the daily life.

When a new sultan ascended to the throne, the harem of the former sultan was moved to another palace. The ladies of the harem and the chief eunuchs emerged as a political power influencing state administration if the reigning sultan was weak and ineffective. Still, life in the harem with all its intrigues, good and bad parts was superior to the life style of women of that period elsewhere.

Only a section of the harem is open to the public. It is up to the imagination of the visitor to recreate the colorful and lively old days in these dim hallways and empty rooms.

The tour of the harem starts with the 40-room section allocated to the mother of the sultan. The next sections are the large Turkish bath and the spacious, domed hall reserved for the sultans.

There are fireplaces and fountains in all available places. The large hall with a pool filled by interesting fountains is decorated with exquisite 16th century tiles. It dates to the reign of Murat III. From the end of this hall, one enters the small library and the "fruit room" which is embellished with paintings of fruits and flowers.

The two 16th century rooms seen at the end of the harem tour have beautiful stained glass windows complementing the rich wall decorations. These rooms were allocated to the crown prince.

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